- S. S. STEWART c.1887
HOW
TO PUT
A HEAD ON A BANJO.
- PRACTICAL INSTRUCTION IN A MATTER WITH
- WHICH EVERY BANJO PLAYER SHOULD
- BE FAMILIAR.
We have in various publications and on different occasions explained
in as clear and concise manner as circumstances would permit the manner
of properly re-heading a banjo. But, at the same time, we have said that
the matter of re-heading a banjo, like any other art, requires some experience
and practice to properly acquire and become proficient in.
Now, in order to give our readers a somewhat clearer view of the
operation, and wishing all to have as clear and practical instruction as
can well be given without personal contact with them, we have taken occasion
here to go over the subject of
PUTTING ON A HEAD,
accompanying the explanatory remarks with a few wood engravings made
from photographs of the work in the different stages of the operation.
We might remark here that it is owing to the number of letters asking for
these particulars that we have attempted to illustrate the subject, deeming
the printed instructions formerly given insufficient to meet the wants
of our customers.
The head, or skin, should be wet enough to make it pliable-but not
soaked until it becomes too flabby. Therefore, to properly wet the head,
roll it in a wet towel for two or three minutes, or immerse it in a tub
of water for a short time. Some heads will become pliable in a few seconds
of wetting, while others require as many minutes.
The head that is most impervious to water and requires the more time
to become pliable, will make the best bead after it becomes dry, as it
will not be so ready to become slack in damp weather as the more pliable
bead.
After the head has become sufficiently pliable, lay it on the rim
of the banjo and place the wire ring, or " flesh hoop," over the head,
thus bringing it down over the rim as shown in the fit at illustration.
Be careful to draw the head evenly and have as few wrinkles in the skin
as possible.
If the wire ring (flesh hoop), is of iron, it is better to give it
one or two coats of shellac varnish-well dried-or else to cover it with
thin muslin over the varnish. This will guard against rusting.
Every banjo player who wishes to put on his own heads (banjo beads,
of course), should provide himself with SIX LONG HOOKS to be used especially
for this purpose, as shown in cuts Nos. 2 and 3.
Keep the wire hoop near the top of the rim and as even as possible;
then, taking the hoop or band in one hand, tuck the edge of the head under
the hoop and put on a long hook to hold the band in place. Now, tuck in
more of the edge of the head, going around the rim, and put on another
hook; do this again, going further around the rim, and your work has assumed
the appearance of cut No. 2.
Proceeding with the work, put on a hook here and there as the head
is tucked up, and after the entire circle has been gone around, take a
pair of pincers and carefully pull the edge of the head tight and smooth
(cut No. 3). But do not pull too hard, so as to tear the head. Try to have
the head perfectly even and free from wrinkles and the hoop pretty well
up above the edge of the rim.
Now begin putting on the books and nuts which rightly belong to the
instrument, and finally remove the six long hooks, replacing them with
the others.
Care must be taken that the head has not been drawn down or strained
during this process, but the nuts on all the hooks left merely tight enough
to hold them all in place.. Now, with a sharp knife, trim off all the circle
of superfluous head-but be very careful not to cut the head and spoil all
the work, just as you think you have it done.
After the edge of the head has been trimmed off the work will assume
the appearance of cut No. 4.
Of course, the edge of the head may be trimmed off before the long
hooks are removed and the full line of hooks put on, if desired. But for
a novice in the art of putting on heads we advise the former method.
If the weather is clear and the air dry when this work is done, the
head will become hard and dry in a couple of days, and the head can then
be " pulled down," that is, you can take the wrench and tighten all the
hooks evenly and thus gradually draw down the head.
It is to be remembered that although with favorable weather a bead
may appear to be perfectly dry and firm on its surface in a few hours after
it is put on, yet that portion of the bead I which is under the hoop has
not by any means become dry, and therefore should not be strained.
It is quite possible after all this work has been gone through with
to break the bead in pulling it tight.
The head will require constant tightening now for a few days until
the greater part of its stretching qualities have been removed, and it
is quite possible that it may break. No one can be an infallible judge
in regard to the lasting qualities of ahead; the best makers and players
of a banjo being frequently deceived in them.
It is quite impossible to get any two heads precisely alike. They
may be selected of the same color and thickness, and same evenness of finish,
and yet when they are put on be found to work differently. It does not
matter whether a head is white or clear (transparent) so long as it is
a good head.
A good head may be broken by accident and need replacing.
No matter bow good a head may have been, when once broken, it is
done for-there is no use in patching it.
A good banjo may sound dull on account of having a poor head, or
one which has been loosely put on and cannot be properly stretched.
The head is a ready absorbant of moisture' at best, and a poor flabby
head which has been improperly manufactured is a curse to a fine banjo
Any banjo will contract the " malaria with such a head.
Do not strain a banjo head very tight until I has become dry and
firm.
The sun is the best head dryer, much prefer. able to a stove. When
the weather is clear, the rim with newly placed head can be placed in the
open air, exposed to the sun's light for a short time. But if the weather
is very hot, with an intense sun heat, it is better to place the work so
that the sun does not shine directly upon it-or, in -other words, place
it out of the direct rays of the sun, and yet in such position as will
allow the dampness to be absorbed. Should the sun shine or heat fall directly
upon the bead and it thus be made to dry too quickly, it contracts and
draws firmly upon the still wet or damp part of the bead which is around
the wire hoop and under the hoop or band, and is, thus unnaturally strained
and frequently caused to break.
A head which has been strained very tight before becoming thoroughly
DRY, will not fast as long as if it had been allowed time to become dry
before being stretched.
Putting a wet towel on a bead after it has been put on in order to
keep it wet and cause it to stretch, is a very bad proceeding. Heads treated
in this way will not last so long as they would if allowed to stretch gradually.
Sometimes a head will last for years. Then again, two or three heads
may be broken, one after another. Some players think it is like "Fisherman's
Luck" to put on a head.
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